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These are a group of wineries that have produced a particularly impressive series of wines for this edition. Eight regions are (indirectly) featured, the ubiquitous Margaret River twice, and the far from ubiquitous Swan Valley also twice. This selection was made from a field of 15, all with compelling claims for inclusion.
A mix of something old – the organic vineyard of Alex and Di Stuart planted between 1994 and ’98 – and something new – the arrival of former Capercaillie winemaker Daniel Binet in December 2008. Throw in the establishment of the cellar door in the former Evans Family Wines building on the ‘golden mile’ of Broke Road, and the fundamentals were in place. The lift in quality from the 2009 and ’10 vintages has been dramatic, although there are some nice wines left from the previous operation.
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Judy and actuary husband Howard Carter began the establishment of their substantial 31-ha vineyard and onsite winery in 1994 situated in the beautiful foothills of the Upper Yarra district. Son Matt Carter’s winemaking has gained confidence as the vineyard has matured; the cooler temperatures and higher rainfall than the lower Yarra Valley can be a challenge in some years, a blessing in others. Quality Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon is quite a quartet.
Andrew Pattison is a veteran warrior of boutique winemaking, albeit with a parallel life in music making. He spent 18 years battling the inclement climate of the Macedon Ranges, before moving to Heathcote in 2004 and retaining Gary Baldwin as a consultant. He has kept a 20-year-old vineyard at Malmsbury with a mixed grill of Bordeaux varieties plus chardonnay and pinot noir, and planted 3 ha at his new vineyard, including gewurztraminer and shiraz. It is all coming together remarkably well.
The Credaro family arrived in Margaret River from Italy in 1922. Just when they planted a few vines to make wine for family consumption I don’t know, but things became more serious through the ’80s and ’90s, now with 93 ha of vineyards. A significant proportion of the grapes are sold, enough retained for winemaker Dave Johnson to produce 6500 dozen bottles a year under the Estate and Beach Head labels. Both have had deserved show success, the Beach Head at very low prices.
An epic tale of a family wine business (Dromana Estate) moving out of family control, but with father Garry Crittenden starting afresh while son Rollo continued as winemaker at Dromana Estate. Rollo returned to join his father at Crittenden Estate in a leased (albeit modern) winery at Patterson Lakes, and in 2010 was named Young Gun Australian Winemaker of the Year. The final twist came from the unbroken ownership of the 14-ha family vineyards, planted in 1982, now a precious asset.
Dr Brian Freeman spent much of his life in academia, culminating in his role as head of Charles Sturt University’s viticulture and oenology campus. After he retired he purchased the 30-year-old Demondrille Vineyard, and established a 45 ha vineyard next door. While he has 14 varieties in production, he has had a long interest in corvina and rondinella; the former is the main and best variety in Valpolicella, the cornerstone for amarone, the latter the offspring of corvina. His blend of the two follows Italian tradition, and flowers with age in bottle.
This is by no means the first time Lamont’s has earnt a five-star rating, but for no obvious reason it has been off or below my radar for the past few years. It has made an emphatic return to top form with six wines rated 94 points and above, putting its neck on the line with such names as Funky Chardonnay, White Monster and Black Monster. If you are going to get away with names like this selling onto the domestic market at substantial prices, you had better the wines right, and winemaker Digby Leddin knows he can do just that.
Dianne Laurance, founder and chairwoman, with sons in support, created the idea of having bottles made like no others on the Australian market, beauty being in the eye of the beholder. Enamelled patterns on bowling-pin-shaped bottles make Lamont’s bravery look commonplace, but here, too, some outstanding wines are being made, and hauling in a rich harvest of trophies and gold medals. Dianne says it is difficult keeping up with the demand for the bottles, and you can’t argue with success.
Rocland has hitherto been content to hide its light under a bushel, its primary business contract winemaking for bulk wine supplies, and exporting wines that it bottles for itself under various names, some obviously aimed at the US market – Kilroy Was Here, Duck Duck Goose, Ass Kisser, and Chocolate Box are examples. Then it comes up with 2005 Ex Gratia Barossa Valley Shiraz that spent five years in American oak and lived to tell the tale triumphantly, and other less extreme wines, both in name and style, that reflect the undoubted skills of winemaker Adam Hall.
Simon and Maaike Berns acquired a 5-ha vineyard at Herne Hill in 1998, own the 4-ha Wildberry Springs Vineyard in Margaret River, buy shiraz from Frankland River and viognier from Chittering – not a bad base for a Swan Valley winery. The winemaking skills of Matthew Bowness are very evident in the 10 000 dozens production of the winery, and really came together for this edition. The attractive cellar door provides one of the most interesting outlets in the Swan Valley.
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Wines considered to offer special value for money.