Coates Wines

Put simply, Duane Coates MW is a maverick. Fearful of the waft of lime that is the trademark of many an Australian riesling, for example, he attempts to shift the paradigm to one of textural intrigue founded on oak, lees and a laissez-faire approach. He is knowledgeable (with a science degree and a master of oenology, among other accolades), likes nice things and has tasted widely. He applies a similar aesthetic and empirical algorithm to all his wines, largely brilliant and inevitably, each of stunning value. -NED GOODWIN MW