News Articles

Three lessons in Australian wine

Publish Date: Not Available

Authored by: Jeni Port

Wine writer Jeni Port provides us with three important lessons in Australian wine, including its spirit of innovation, diversity of styles and rapid adaption.

Australian wine has its foundation in the soil and, contrary to what some overseas pundits believe, our soils exist not only in warm, but also cool regions and sub-regions.

Lesson One: Australian wine is not homogenous. Enough of the ‘sunshine in a bottle’ branding – it’s so 1980s. Australian wine also has its foundation in the mind of the producer. There are makers who uphold what little tradition we have built in this country (Morris), and makers who believe that wine should be good and affordable to everyone (Yalumba). There are those who embrace exploration and a challenge (Holm Oak), those who seek perfection (Grosset), and some who are seekers of restraint and complexity (Coldstream Hills).

Lesson Two: Don’t pigeonhole grapes or regional styles, because there will always be someone doing it differently. The individual abides. The second foundation of Australian wine is a little looser, a little freer. It’s innovation and adaption. It’s always there. Today it’s to be seen in the move to alternative grape varieties, those suited to a drier, hotter future, and wines made with less intervention, represented by the so-called ‘natural wine’ movement.

Lesson Three: The Australian wine industry is in constant evolution. Just don’t blink!

Jeni Port's ultimate Aussie six-pack

1. 2016 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling
RRP $60 | Clare Valley | Grosset

2. 2012 Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay
RRP $60 | Yarra Valley | Coldstream Hills

3. 2014 Holm Oak Wizard Pinot Noir
RRP $60 | Tasmania | Holm Oak

4. 2013 Yalumba The Scribbler Cabernet Shiraz
RRP $20 | Eden Valley | Yalumba 

5. 2015 Moppity Vineyards Escallier Shiraz
RRP $120 | Hilltops | Moppity Vineyards 

6. Morris Old Premium Rare Liqueur Muscat
RRP $75 | Rutherglen | Morris Wines

The Defining Australian Wine series is produced with thanks to our brand partner Winery Lane, an online marketplace designed to unite wine lovers with independent winemakers. Click here to watch Winery Lane’s Stephen Mobbs tackle the topic of what makes an archetypally Aussie wine.

Halliday Wine Companion reviews are 100 per cent independent and recommendations published here reflect the opinions of the original authors. Unless content is labelled 'Sponsored', you can be assured that advertisers have no influence over what is included.

Subscribe to Wine Companion today

Become a member

Let's Socialise Stay Connected

Become a member and get access to more than 100,000 tasting notes

Join today

For the full winecompanion.com.au experience, please update your web browser. to something less antiquated

Special Value

Wines considered to offer special value for money.