The definitive guide to Australian Wines
Publish Date: 19 Dec 2014
Authored by: James Halliday
The 2002 vintage started in the market in 2004 with a fanfare of trumpets, then went through a difficult period with producers and consumers alike confessing the vintage hadn't really turned out in bottle the way they expected, Now - in the manner of Burgundy - it is coming back to confront those who wrote it off. I really like the structure, and the controlled acidity. Most importantly, Les Boudots answers all of those who sniff about Nuits-St-Georges; to be fair, it is crowded up against the boundary with Vosne-Romanée, and (courtesy of my favourite, Mongeard-Mugneret) this becomes one of the wines that, by a process of osmosis, draws me to it.
Regrettably, I only have a couple of bottles of this wine by Jean Grivot, but I'm going to enjoy the hell out of them, simply because the wine has that wild earthy/savoury/foresty/spicy grip, texture and flavour (it's all three at the one time) that Nuits-St-Georges by and large misses, and Vosne-Romanée does with ridiculous ease in the hands of a good maker and a good vintage. It has terrific length, but it's an unexpected burst of sweet fruit on the finish and aftertaste that really enthrals me.
It came with a very unusual dish, partly the intuitive skill of Suzanne, partly through a recipe she had read somewhere or other; it brings together sweet and sour flavours of highly spicy meat sausage, cabbage cured in red wine and Chinese spices, the components wok-fried to the point where the cabbage had just softened, and the flavours bound up with the meat. A dusting of freshly roasted almonds, pounded seconds before they were put on top of the dish, along with those dried Chinese shallots you buy for nothing in Chinatown, put the final SWALK on the dish – and the match with the wine.
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