What I'm Drinking...

2003 Seppelt Drumborg Riesling

Publish Date: 28 Oct 2014

Authored by: James Halliday

If you were served this wine blind, there is simply no way you would think it was older than five years, and quite possibly guess three or four years. When first opened and poured, there is the faintest hint of spritz which accentuates the mineral framework the wine has, the mineral impression coming from its very low pH. After retasting, and then tasting again and again, the lime and grapefruit flavours start to assert themselves on the ultra-focused and incredibly long palate. I know, having shared in 20-year-old bottles of Seppelt Drumborg Riesling where the cork half did its job, that these wines are endowed with perpetual youth.

Don't think the screwcap is arresting development; it's not, because once you place this wine alongside (say) the 2013 vintage, the nature and quality of the development will be immediately obvious. How long will it last from hereon? Well, I don't think I'm going to worry too much about the longevity of the other bottle I still have, because I'll get to it before the grim reaper gets me. Oh, and by the way, it came with a wonderful platter of cold smoked salmon, gloriously rare fillet of steak (previously cooked), and a galaxy of cold vegetables, some raw, some cooked. And the sun gently warmed us at lunch as we looked out over the Yarra Valley, as green as Ireland.

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