The definitive guide to Australian Wines
Publish Date: 31 Jul 2015
Authored by: James Halliday
For my part, I had always loved the style of wines that he made, adopting full bunch fermentation with foot stomping, etc, and using oak in part procured from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (second use) made possible by his friendship with Aubert de Villaine. It has never ceased to amaze me how pinot noir in Burgundy can absorb 100% whole bunch fermentation (always used with Patrick Bize) without batting an eyelid, even in the supposedly lesser regions such as Savigny-les-Beaune. If I were to start again (and, I must quickly say that as I approach my 77th birthday next month, I have not the slightest intention of doing so in this incarnation), I would retain whol ebunch fermentation, even though Coldstream Hills (and others) are using a whole berry, but no whole bunch, method.
Drinking this wine as I am, the dictation machine in my left hand, the wine in the right, marks a rite of passage in time since Patrick died from a heart attack during vintage in 2013. Above all else, it has some of the sauvage character which made the '78 vintage so great. It's foresty and earthy, yet exceptionally full in the mouth and with a length on the palate that Burgundy is able to instil in its wines, the rest of us mortals looking on in envious admiration. The 2002 vintage has waxed and waned in popularity; early on it was said if you couldn't make a good wine in this vintage, find some other occupation, but a reappraisal (by some) had other ideas to which they are, quite frankly, welcome. I have enough bottles of this wine, and others he made in 2002, to see my ashes scattered on House Block Chardonnay, no matter how far in the future that event may be. Vale Patrick, and thank you for your legacy.
Become a member
Alongside James Halliday is a dedicated team of tasters who review the wines in the Halliday Wine Companion guide.
Meet the team
Start planning your next winery tour with our new winery section and new look winery pages
Whether you're after the most recent tasting notes, or you just want to browse through those from previous months, you'll find it all here in our archive.
In brief with James Halliday shows you the world of wine through James' eyes, sharing his wine news, commentary and titbits of personal interest.
Read in brief
Get started with our Virtual Cellar and you'll be able to manage your own collection, add tasting notes and set drink now alerts.
Copyright 2018 WineCompanion.com.au
Get two bonus bottles of wine when you become a member*
Sign up now
For the full winecompanion.com.au experience, please update your web browser. to something less antiquated
Wines considered to offer special value for money.