Barton Vineyard

This is the venture of Milly and Frank Youl. Frank is a sixth-generation Tasmanian with a farming background on a merino sheep stud; the property, long known as Barton, is adjacent to the Macquarie River. After planting a few trial vines in 1987, the Youls finally took the plunge (ignoring most advice) and planted pinot noir and riesling on a north-facing slope in 2001. They have a small cottage for fly fishers near the Macquarie River, and I believe I stayed in it one year with fellow judges from the Tasmanian Wine Show. The cottage brings the Youl family history full circle, as forebear James Youl introduced trout into Australia. -JAMES HALLIDAY