Put these alongside Burgundies at twice the price and they won’t yield any ground. Yet the journey still has a long way to go, with new clones slotting in alongside MV6, an old clone unique to Australia. The average age of vines is also rising – the oldest are now more than 40 years old. A titanic struggle between Tasmania (10 wines), Yarra Valley (9) and Mornington Peninsula (8).

Winner: the 2015 Mount Mary Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

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