Softly spoken Bernie (Bernard) Hickin joined Orlando in the same year that Jacob’s Creek was launched (1976), never guessing that 30 years later he would become chief winemaker, nor that the child (Jacob’s Creek) would devour the parent (Orlando).
But when the 1994 Maurice O’Shea Award for Outstanding Contribution to the Australian Wine Industry was given to Jacob’s Creek, the game changed. This was the only time the award has been presented to a brand, and the chance of a repetition are non-existent.
I had been a commentator for well over a decade when Jacob’s Creek ceased to be a single red wine blend of shiraz, cabernet and malbec. In 1984 Jacob’s Creek Riesling arrived, and I took Orlando to task for confusing the issue. One Jacob’s Creek was enough.
If you are going to make a bad call it might as well be a big one, and I certainly achieved that. Jacob’s Creek is now one of the largest wine brands in the world and continues to spread sideways, upwards but not downwards. The so-called “Classic” range is the bedrock on which the towering array of Jacob’s Creek is anchored.
To take one example, the consumer/focus group research outcome of the just-launched Jacob’s Creek Cool Harvest range of sparkling NV Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc, ’11 Pinot Grigio and ’11 Sauvignon Blanc have between 10.5% and 10.8% alc/vol. Only the ’11 Shiraz Rose has the temerity to tip the scales at 11% alc/vol. Using the nebulous RRP yardstick, the classic range is line-priced at $11.49 (a real price of $9.99), the Cool Harvest (catch the new moon and stars on the label) at $14.99.
Because the classic range is drawn from all over South East Australia, Jacob’s Creek baulked at linking regions and varieties with its $17.99 Reserve range, but has now done so with a vengeance. Jacob’s Creek has also subsumed St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and bravely extended St Hugo’s varietal/regional range.
2011 Jacob’s Creek Cool Harvest Sauvignon Blanc
Two-thirds of the grapes for this wine come from the cool climate regions of Langhorne Creek, Limestone Coast, Padthaway and Fleurieu. It is held at 5˚C and bottled progressively. Combined with the screwcap, this guarantees the freshness essential to the brand, and the mix of tropical/lychee/citrus flavours. A touch of CO2 joins the acidity on the vibrant finish.
10.8% alc; screwcap
87 points; drink to 2012; $14.99
2008 Jacob’s Creek Shiraz Cabernet
An astonishing blue-gold medal at the Sydney International Wine Competition ’11 must have surprised as much as it pleased the Jacob’s Creek team, and must have led to an additional print of blue-gold stickers. It is a perfectly pleasant wine, some winery skill resulting in its modest alcohol in that never-to-be-forgotten vintage, with a gently savoury/herbal edge to its light-bodied black fruits, the balance good. Ready now, don’t delay. 13.5% alc; screwcap
89 points; drink to 2012; $11.49
2010 Jacob’s Creek St Hugo Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro
A 43/32/23% varietal blend, the grenache from two 40-year-old and one 83-year-old block, the mataro from bush-pruned vines at Greenock. An upwards, sideways (and cannibalistic) move for Jacob’s Creek with lifted aromatics, layers of red and black fruits, and supple, fine tannins on the very long finish. 14.1% alc; screwcap
95 points; drink to 2018; $49.99