The friendship between the ever ready-to-laugh Tim James and slow-to-smile Peter Dawson began more than a quarter of a century ago. Dawson’s first job was as a cellar hand at Thomas Hardy’s inner-city Mile End Cellars, where James was production winemaker. Over the ensuing decades they both rose to senior winemaker roles, Dawson after a sojourn at the helm of Houghton.
Both left Hardy’s before the dismemberment of the Constellation empire (the remnants now known as Accolade). James jumped first, becoming managing director of Wirra Wirra until retiring in 2007. Dawson left his role as Australia-wide head of winemaking and viticulture for Constellation in 2008. Both now have consultancy roles, in Dawson’s case twinned with his chairmanship of the Australian Wine
Research Institute, and Australian head of French barrel maker Taransaud.
But once a winemaker, always a winemaker, and the two have joined forces to create Dawson & James. Says Dawson: “The fact that we’re doing this together is the realisation of a long-term friendship, and of sharing wine and discussing it for more than 30 years.” Adds James: “We have always enjoyed drinking good pinot noir and chardonnay, and in our own ways have endeavoured to push this interest throughout our corporate careers.”
It is almost inevitable that they should choose Tasmania for their first releases of single vineyard chardonnay and pinot noir; likewise, that they should be of the highest quality. The grapes come from the Meadowbank Vineyard on the upper Derwent River, the blocks planted in 1989 and fully mature. Their aim has been to give the site maximum freedom to express itself. With only 350 dozen pinot noir and 300 dozen chardonnay (sold in six-packs) the website and associated mail list at www.dawsonjames.com.au will be the most likely source for would-be buyers.
It may prove even harder to track down Tom Carson and Nadège Suné’s Serrat pinot noir, but all the wines are made without any compromise, and are a labour of love, not profit.
2010 Dawson & James Chardonnay
The wine is super-intense and very long in the mouth, with grapefruit to the fore, white peach following. There is a gentle touch of funk ex partial solids fermentation, the 11 months in 30% new Taransaud oak (what else?) not obvious, and 50% malolactic fermentation leaving great natural acidity that accelerates the wine on the finish and aftertaste.
12% alc; screwcap 96 points; drink to 2023; $42
2010 Dawson & James Pinot Noir
Excellent bright red-purple colour introduces a very fragrant, flowery, scented bouquet, then a supple, elegant and expressive palate with small berries and spices, silky tannins, and great drive. 10% whole bunches and 30% new Taransaud oak are the trimmings for a lovely pinot in which the fruit does all the work.
13.5% alc; screwcap 96 points; drink to 2017; $48
2010 Serrat Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
Only 120 dozen bottles made, the vines still recovering from the ’09 bushfires. It is 100% MV6 clone, and had 20% whole bunch inclusion in the ferment. It is extremely fragrant, with ethereal floral aromas, and the palate lives up to the promise of the bouquet, with a presence like that of Chambolle-Musigny; it has a silky juicy mouthfeel, and a fine tannin conclusion; all the components are immaculately balanced.
13.5% alc; screwcap 96 points; drink to 2018; $36