What I'm Drinking...

1994 Virgin Hills

Publish Date: 04 Aug 2011

I first opened a bottle of '79 Virgin Hills, but the 54mm cork had slipped partially into the bottle, and volatile acidity made the wine virtually undrinkable. So I moved to a much younger vintage, albeit with challenges of its own. The back label tells part of the story. "A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Malbec and Merlot, free of herbicides, systemic sprays and preservatives. Wine is the temperate, civilized, romantic and sometimes sacred beverage enjoyed with food and pondered over since the beginning of civilization. Share a glass or two with us for the pleasures and good health it undeniably has. Alcohol by volume 11.5% Preservatives naturally occurring sulphur less than 10 parts per million.' So. No SO2 added. Low alcohol. A mega-length cork. The colour was light, but clear and healthy, with some garnet. Tasted on opening before the steak it was to be matched with, it seemed rather thin, with a herbal/silage aroma. Instead of fading (no preservative) it bloomed, the bouquet freshening, and the labent red fruits of the palate blossoming. The tannins have never really made their mark, not even in the wine's youth, and are now at a subliminal level. Did I finish my half bottle? Yes, I did.

Authored by: James Halliday

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