Winery of the year
Tyrrell'sAs will always be the case, there were half a dozen wineries with
equally strong claims to be accorded this accolade. Given the
restrictions imposed by the climate and soil of the Hunter Valley, it
might seem an unlikely environment to foster a winery with a range of
wines, varieties and prices to edge out all others, as Tyrrell's has
done. I hasten to add that it did not (in diving parlance) receive a
'degree of difficulty' bonus: the wines are what they are.
It is obvious the cornerstone of the Tyrrell's portfolio is Semillon, in turn that of the Hunter Valley as a whole. Tyrrell's' development of the range of Single Vineyard Semillons, some from very old plantings, has added a layer of character and choice unmatched by the other makers in the region. To back this up is Vat 1 Semillon, which has won more trophies and gold medals than any other Australian white wine.
There has been a similar enriching of the shiraz portfolio: the Single Vineyard Old Patch 1867 comes from the celebrated Stevens Vineyard; the Winemaker's Selection 4 Acres from the block on the right-hand side of the road as you drive up to the winery planted in 1879, the original planting was so close-spaced that in 1964 every second row was removed to allow tractors on to the vineyard.
Then, there is Vat 47 Chardonnay, the first quality chardonnay to be made in the 20th century, for long the pacesetter. The development of cool-climate regions, notably Margaret River and the Yarra Valley, and the arrival of the new Dijon clones from France, has meant the overall quality of Australian chardonnay has risen dramatically since 1971, the birth year of Vat 47. Notwithstanding this, Vat 47 still holds its head high, as does Tyrrell's Belford Single Vineyard Chardonnay.
Single vineyards and old vines are not enough, of course. The potential
has to be realised in the winery, and this is achieved with seeming
ease by the winemaking team headed by Andrew Spinaze. Here the credo is
let the wines speak without interference or embroidery.
Next is
the exceptional quality of the high volume Old Winery range with a RRP
of $12, and a discount price well below that. Finally, there is the
undoubted truth of Bruce Tyrrell's belief that, in his words: 'We are
entering a golden age for Semillon.' It is a wine more prone to the
vagaries of cork than any other, even low levels of sporadic oxidation
wreaking havoc, let alone high levels or cork taint/TCA proper. The
screwcap has ended all that, giving a guarantee that good semillon will
cruise through its fifth, tenth, twentieth, even fiftieth, birthdays,
changing as it does, gaining character and complexity, albeit losing
primary fruit flavours and freshness. You can pick your moment to drink
the wine, knowing there will be no nasty surprises waiting for you.