Master of Wine Toni Paterson on why semillon might be your new favourite white variety

How often do we hear – or say – “I’ll have a glass of white, please” – as if all white wines are interchangeable?

Perhaps you’re after something light on its feet but full of quiet confidence. A wine that’s pristine, unoaked, moderate in alcohol, and brimming with citrus energy. If that’s what you’re looking for, then what you’re really after is semillon.

It’s one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets. Many people don’t realise they love it until they try it.

High in charm, it doesn’t shout for attention but rewards the drinker with purity, subtlety, and a sense of place. Versatile, distinctive, and easy to love, its spiritual home in Australia is the Hunter Valley, where the style is unique. It stands tall and proud without needing blending partners or oak – mirroring its region, site and maker.

Toni Paterson MW.

Single-vineyard semillons are especially prized for the precision with which they reflect the soil and specific microclimate of the vineyard. Although semillons can age magnificently, they’re remarkably approachable when young, particularly when contemporary winemaking is paired with a warmer year like 2024. The wines have instant appeal and flavour while maintaining freshness and clarity.

Here are some top recent releases under $50 from the 2024 season, many from single vineyards, plus a stunning aged example from 2018 to demonstrate just how well semillon evolves with time.