Cael’s Gate is a family-owned operation sourcing grapes from Mudgee, the Hunter and the Riverina, with the flexibility to prioritise depending on the nature of the vintage and quality of material. Currently, other than a Hunter Chardonnay, there is a Shiraz and Cabernet from the Riverina, a region that was not afflicted with the recent smoke issues of other districts. The Riverina may well be better known for sweet botrytised styles and large-volume expressions of a simple, fruit-forward persuasion, yet Cael’s Gate defies the status quo with aplomb. All the fruit is hand picked. Extraction is judicious. Pretty good French oak is employed, too. The result is a duo of high-quality reds that may well come to be known as ‘Super Riverinas’, so divergent are they from regional styles to date.