By Jingo!

John Gilbert's interest in wine began while working in the pay TV industry; tasting a bottle of 1996 Kangarilla Road Old Vine Zinfandel in '97 led directly to purchasing a small block (1.5ha) overlooking Mount Barker township and partly planting it with zinfandel and shiraz. At the same time he studied at the University of Adelaide, Roseworthy Campus, graduating in 2000. With remarkable alacrity he left for vintages in Sicily and Alto Adige in '01; this fanned the flames, and he instigated the importation of grillo, and planted it and montepulciano, nero d'Avola and negro amaro on the Mount Barker plot. With equal alacrity he created a number of brands, including Jardim do Bomfim, with a production of 20 000 dozen, and was able to sell this in early 2011 to concentrate on his alternative varieties, offered at attention-getting prices. -JAMES HALLIDAY