Ambush Hill

John, Mark and Shaun are the third generation of the Ledson family, which has owned the vineyard since it was planted by grandfather Syd Ledson in the 1950s. From that time until the present, the quality of the grapes has meant there has always been a ready market for them. They decided some years ago to put their toe into the water - or, rather, wine - by having a small part of the crush contract-made. The Ambush Hill name comes from the 19 century, when Ambush Hill was a landmark on the hills to the north of McLaren Vale, with tales of derring-do by smugglers of illegal alcohol and tobacco. -JAMES HALLIDAY