Tucked into the south-east corner of New Zealand's North Island, Wairarapa (not to be confused with the South Island's Waipara) has built a reputation for wines of precision and quiet confidence. While nearby Marlborough may dominate headlines, Wairarapa distinguishes itself through small-scale production and a strong sense of place.
At the heart of the region lies Martinborough, where pinot noir has become the calling card. Here, the variety leans savoury and finely structured, offering red cherry fruit, gentle spice and earthy nuance framed by supple tannins. Chardonnay also excels, and riesling thrives in the cool-climate conditions.
The seven wines featured below – each rated between 92 and 95 points by the Tasting Team – show off Wairarapa at its best. Together, they highlight a region that may be small in scale, but is producing wines of impressive character and consistency.
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wairarapa wines to try
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Grava
Riesling 2023
MartinboroughThis has some mettle and thrust. Lemon-lime sorbet with a touch of green almond, some gingery notes, a savoury edge generally, which feels very appealing and delivers additional complexity. Excellent extension of flavour, great perfume. Fantastic drinking. -
Te Kairanga
Pinot Noir 2024
MartinboroughFine, lithe, shapely and restrained. Peppered with dusty spice, dark cherry, cola, mossy notes and a dash of dried seaweed and thyme. Fresh to taste, too, quite sleek and compact, a brightness underlying, with all the fruit trim and taut, finishing fine with pleasing, gentle, gravelly grip. A serious wine, firm, understated in its beauty. -
Palliser Estate
Chardonnay 2024
MartinboroughA fleshy, richer style of chardonnay but well managed with spicy oak influence, some slate-like minerality and well-judged freshness. It opens with vanilla cream and cinnamon, shows off stewed pear and delivers some pulpy lime characters, dashes of cedar and a flourish of faint lemon thyme, too. A polished expression with inherent complexity and straight-up charm. -
Ata Rangi
Pinot Noir 2024
MartinboroughVery pretty perfume of red cherry, green tomato, a touch of jalapeño, some dark chocolate and, curiously, a little exotic, tropical floral lift. Juicy in the palate, with a wrap of fine, silty tannins drawn long to a fine, bright finish. A little extra dusting of woody spices emerges, too. A wine of joy and approachability. -
Martinborough Vineyard
Home Block Chardonnay 2024
MartinboroughQuite a bit of sweet nougat laid into sweet spice, with ripe stone fruit, rockmelon, baked apple and some marzipan all noted in the description list. The texture is plump, a touch buttery, with a lot of flavour packed in here. An old-school, good-school style, done well. -
Grava
Pinot Noir 2020
MartinboroughA little bronze and ruddy in the glass. Maturity showing its hand in charcuterie, autumn leaves, mushroom and truffle characters with dried cranberry, cinnamon-stewed plums and dark chocolate. Soft texture, a swishy and pleasingly relaxed feel to taste, a long finish with licks of truffle, sweet earthiness and some dried fruit and nut characters. In a good place, but best drunk about now. -
Nga Waka
Three Paddles Pinot Noir 2024
MartinboroughDark cherry, cola, cranberry and nutmeg with bacon bone, powdered coffee, peanut brittle and truffle. Lots of richness and power, almost a breathiness of ripe fruit and woody spice to taste. A lick of freshness closes things well, but the wine does veer into dry reddy territory pretty quickly. For those seeking bolder pinot, this is an option.
Top image credit: Martinborough Vineyard
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