2022 Varietal Winners

Top Rated: Grenache and Blends

By The Tasting Team
Grenache was the stuff of history a decade ago. My, how things have changed! Attentive detail in the vines and elegance in the wines have ushered in a brand new day. A short list of only five wines in our final judging for Grenache of the Year should not be construed to reflect any lack of strength in the category, but rather the dominance of two regions (McLaren Vale and Barossa) with one stunning outlier – the Swinney family has proven that Frankland River can play at this game, too.

At the end of the day, it’s McLaren Vale for the win, putting forward more top-scoring wines than every other region put together. Thistledown’s 80-year-old Blewitt Springs bush vines proved to be convincing and worthy in the final showdown.

Find out more about grenache in our essential guide.

2019 Thistledown Sands of Time Old Vine Single Vineyard Blewitt Springs Grenache

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From the Smart vineyard – a Grand Cru of the Vale – with the great Bernard Smart (vale) immortalised on the front label. Fermented as whole bunches in a concrete pyramid, then matured in hogsheads, with 20% new oak. Such a delightfully pale-hued, fragrantly savoury and finely structured suite this year. A red aperitivo thread builds through the sour cherry, tart redcurrant, pomegranate and dried cranberry notes, with bitter orange, coriander seed, cardamom, white pepper, cinchona bark, cinnamon and bitter alpine herbs. There’s such engaging transparency to this, such serene refinement, such poise. It’s a wine of incredible depth and weightlessness, suspended over a tannic net of such intricacy. It's as good an iteration as I can recall tasting on release. A great wine. – Marcus Ellis

*This is an edited extract from the 2022 Halliday Wine Companion, with reviews by Jane Faulkner, James Halliday, Erin Larkin, Tony Love, Ned Goodwin MW, Jeni Port and chief editor Tyson Stelzer.


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